Bike Trip 2 – Day 11 Schlogen to Linz

31 Thursday May 2018

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39 miles, 3.5 hours on the bike, elevation gain 0

What a lazy riding day this was. All of 39 miles. We’d planned to explore a few towns off-route but didn’t find the right roads to them.

I forgot to mention that yesterday we were wearing our Northwest Tandem Rally jerseys and met another couple wearing their New England Wicked Tandem Society (NEWTS) jerseys. We had a great time talking about the challenges of organizing tandem rallies. Today we wore our same jerseys and met up with a group from Vancouver, British Columbia. They recognized Puget Sound on our jerseys. It was a lot of fun chatting with them. They are riding from Passau to Budapest. We also met a guy traveling from Munich, Germany to India.

In Aschach we stopped to visit the Ship Building and Fishing Museum but it was closed.

Here’s a really cool gate in the woods we came upon while looking for the road to one of those towns.

In Eferding we bought some sandwiches and wine and biked along the Danube to a nice bench along the river and had our lunch. Here’s my picnic pal who joined us.

After another 10 kilometers we crossed the Danube on a cable ferry. A cable ferry is one that is guided across a river or large body of water by cables connected to both shores. The cable keeps the ferry from being swept down stream on its crossing. What was especially fun about this crossing is that we got there right when a whole herd of kids arrived on their bikes heading home from school. They completely blocked the path for the cars getting off the ferry and just headed right on board as the few cars just squeezed their way off. It was clear these kids do this ride every day.

The ferry ride.

And the mass exodus on the other side.

After about 10 kilometers we arrived at our destination – Park Inn Hotel in Linz.

Believe it or not, this is a very nice place. We even have windows that open and air conditioning. (The past two hotels were just hot , hot , hot.)

A less than so-so dinner at a highly rated pizzaria and the end of another day.

Bike Trip 2 – Day 10 Passau to Shlogun

30 Wednesday May 2018

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Danube, Engelszell, Schlogen, Trappist Monastery

31 miles, 3 hours on the bike, 415 elevation gain

We were on the road before 9 and it was already toasty warm outside. No need for jackets. Today we retraced our steps back downstream along the Danube except this time we were on the opposite side of the river.

Our first stop at 27km was the Trappist Monastery Engelszell which was founded in 1293.

In 1699 a fire destroyed the gothic monastery and church. A new abby and church were built from 1700-1764. In 1939 the Trappists were forced from the abbey by the Gestapo. Of the 73 monks forced from the abbey, only 23 returned after the war. Since 1945 the community has persevered despite economic hardships and the small number of monks. The Trappist Monks produce beer and sell liqueurs of several different kinds made from traditional recipes and are said to have medicinal properties. We thought it would be a good idea to support the Trappist Monks.

Here’s a peak inside the chapel.

There were six of these, three on each side.

And a close up of the golden box.

And look at how modernistic the ceiling artwork is.

Back on the cycle path we passed a lot of scenery like this, big fields of grain – wheat, barley? – with poppies sprinkled throughout.

We got to our hotel around noon,

and had a delightful salad lunch. Lucky for us, they had a pool which was great for cooling off. It was a hot one today. The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring the nearby marina/campground and planning tomorrow’s adventure.

There’s really nothing else here so we had a wonderful dinner of lamb shank with their house white wine at the hotel. Chris wowed the waiter with his questions about Austrian ice wines and red wines and while we were eating his recommended dessert – pancake (crepe) with strawberries, etc. he brought us two different samples of Austrian reds that were perfect with the dessert.

They were both great, but Chris really liked the one on the left – Blauer Portugieser. We’ll be heading into Austria’s primo wine region in a few days and now we know what we’re looking for.

Today I will end with this. Not sure about who or what he represents but I think he might be Kokopelli’s Bavarian kin, don’t you agree?

Bike Trip 2 – Day 9 Rest day in Passau

29 Tuesday May 2018

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Passau, River Inn

Today is the start of Bike Trip No. 2 from Passau to Vienna. On this day we moved to our new hotel across the bridge. Chris rode the tandem over and I took a taxi with two suitcases and the great big bike case. We are now at Dormero Hotel.

Before I talk about our day it’s time for a little geography lesson. Below is a map of Passau. See the point of land? We stayed just off the map to the right yesterday and today we are just off the map to the left.

In Passau you can see the confluence of three rivers. The black Ilz from the north is referred to as the “Black Pearl of the Bavarian Forest” due to its dark color and the appearance of the rare freshwater pearl mussel. The green Inn from the south carries almost the same amount of water as the Danube. The glacial melt water of the Alps gives the Inn its distinct green color. And the blue Danube from the West. The Danube is the second largest river in Europe (after the Wolga). It originates in the Black Forest of Germany and flows through Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova and the Ukraine before joining the Black Sea.

A view of the Cathedral from the other side of the river.

Two days ago we followed the Danube upstream to Passau and tomorrow we will start our second journey by following the Danube downstream all the way to Vienna.

Today is just a get to the hotel and get settled day. Our guide book recommended a short 15km flat round trip ride on the cycle path up the Inn and back on the other side of the river. Sounds easy enough – just follow the river.

Here we are doing some single track biking as we decide we’re not on the right cycle path. We just have to climb up this hill and over that guard rail and we’ll be right back on track.

Back on the cycle path we follow the train tracks – have you ever seen steel railroad ties?

We got to the turnaround point after 10km of riding and had lunch. Then crossed this cool single-tower suspension bridge just for bikes.

Here’s a view of the cycle path back along the River Inn.

We discovered a grocery store right next to our hotel so we bought some ham and cheese and apple and bread and vino and had a wonderful picnic dinner on our little balcony. Our delicious Gruner Veltliner (thank you Justin) was the perfect pairing. (We’re keeping it in the mini-fridge to keep it chilled.)

Here is a sculpture that greeted us as we crossed the cycle bridge. So romantic.

Bike Trip – Day 8 Rest Day in Passau

28 Monday May 2018

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Passau

It’s a beautiful Sunday morning and the church bells are ringing all around us as we set off to explore the town. Because it’s Sunday, many of the shops are closed and there are no crowds anywhere. It’s so peaceful and it must be a rest day for the locals.

Our first stop is the magnificent St. Stephen’s Cathedral located in the Old Town’s highest point.

With 17,974 organ pipes and 233 stops the organ in the back of the cathedral is the world’s largest cathedral organ.

From here we wandered the quiet side streets of Passau.

Some of the sites along the way.

This was a fun and interesting little street.

See the circles overhead all along the path? Each one represents a different type of plastic trash. (You might need to click on each picture to read the captions.)

Plastic bags

Krups cups

Plastic cups

Bottle caps and corks

These markings indicate the high water line when the Danube overflowed its banks.

Afternoon thunder clouds rolling in.

And after an early evening downpour, a beautiful, calm, peaceful end to the day.

Bike Trip – Day 7 Aigen – Passau, Germany

27 Sunday May 2018

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Passau

52 miles, 1,100 feet elevation climbed, 4 hours on the bike

What a spectacular day! A few little climbs in the first 10 kilometers and the rest of the day was going from 620 foot elevation to 275 feet. Here are some scenes of the countryside.

We are following the Vltava downstream. Perfect tandem riding.

At last we arrive at the Danube

where we take this little ferry across

and ride upstream on an amazing cycle path along the Danube.

Then back across the river

and continue along the other side

all the way to Passau.

We’re staying at the Weisser Hase (White Rabbit) Hotel

Check out the bike parking in their garage.

As we started to wander the town we were bombarded with the crowds and tour groups so we headed for the river

and had a long leisurely dinner that was excellent once again.

Bike Trip – Day 6 Cesky Krumlov – Aigen, Austria

27 Sunday May 2018

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Aigen, Schiffner Mein Biergasthaus

43 miles, 2,005 feet elevation gain, 4 hours biking time

The notes for todays ride said “Today is the opportunity to show off your sporting prowess with a few tough climbs…” Lucky for us the climbs were no different from all the others we’ve mastered. But the threat of rain filled the air. A great opportunity to test out our new Showers Pass rain gear.

So, off we go and at about 25km we saw signs that looked like the road was closed. It didn’t look closed so we continued on. First we came upon a spot that had just been repaired but was set up so traffic could go around it. No problem. A ways down the road we came upon this.

We waited for him to finish his dump and continued on until we came upon

When we were waived through we endured a long slog of walking through the mud. (This picture’s for you Bill. Thanks a lot for teaching Chris there’s no such thing as a closed road in Japan.)

We walked about a kilometer all the way to the next town.

Shortly after this it started to rain – payback I think. We took cover for a few minute to review our map. Not sure if you can see how hard it’s raining.

We rode the last 25 kilometers in the rain. Our gear worked great. Plus it was very pleasant rolling hills. We got to our next destination dripping wet and a bit muddy but our hosts welcomed us with open arms. Much later in the evening the sun came out. Here is our hotel Schiffner Mein Biergasthaus.

Here’s the view from our window. I couldn’t stop looking out as the shades of green changed with the sun.

And check out the “art work” above our bed.

Why a picture of hops you ask? Well, it turns out the owner of this place is Karl Schiffner. He is the first Beer Sommelier World Champion! This hotel/restaurant had six beers on tap, some brewed by Karl’s son Felix who came in second place at the Beer Sommelier World Championship a few years later. They have over 150 beers from around the world to choose from. Here are a few.

Not only did they have beer but the food at their restaurant was amazing. One of Felix’s forte’s is food and beer pairings so he gave some excellent recommendations. Look at this beautiful feast. The creamy asparagus soup was incredible.

If you are ever in the neighborhood, I highly recommend Schiffner just outside the town of Aigen.

Bike Ride – Day 5 Budweis – Cesky Krumlov

26 Saturday May 2018

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Ceske Krumlov

19 miles, 1,250 elevation gain, 2 hours biking time

Today is a short day with several very steep climbs. Beautiful countryside. Yesterday’s weather report said there’d be thunderstorms all day today. Lucky for us the rain held off.

I took these two pictures from the same spot, just looking one way and then other.

We arrived in Cesky Krumlov by 1100. Here we’re walking the bike down a very steep cobblestone street looking for our hotel. It’s right here somewhere.

Once again quick showers and off we go to explore the town. This is my favorite town so far. Cesky Krumlov is a medieval town and has been a UNESCO world cultural heritage site since 1992. For centuries this town has been known as the “Pearl of the Bohemian Forest.” It has over 300 historical buildings and an impressive castle complex.

To give you an idea of the town check out this map. The castle complex is on the upper right and the town square is in the center. The Vltava makes an extreme S curve here.

Here’s a peak at the castle from the town.

And here is the castle.

This is our destination.

We’ve been listening to the thunder getting closer so we headed up to the top of the tower.

Check out these old stairs.

And the view from the top.

By the time I took this picture the wind was howling so hard I could hardly stand still and it was time to get out of the tower.

Back down we go.

We got out of the tower just as the rain started to dump so we got tickets for a castle tour and stayed nice and dry until the rain stopped for the moment. (No photography in the castle.)

This was kinda’ funny.

Oh, and here’s the bear who lives in the moat.

Some sites around the village.

As we walked back to the hotel we heard an odd sort of rhythmic sound and as we rounded the corner, we came upon the source of the sound. It was the stick people. They would pound the large stick on the cobbles and tap that stick with a small stick, making a musical rhythm.

Such a great place.

Day 4 – Pisek to Ceske Budejovice

25 Friday May 2018

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Ceske Budejovice, Hluboka Castle

50 miles 3,065 elevation gain 5.5 hours riding time

Our route directions for the day started out by saying “You can take a taxi to avoid the first 20km and 200 meters altitude difference.” Or… you can just start your day with a very steep long climb. Before we’d gone 2 miles we’d climbed over 700 feet. Most of the day consisted of a lot of very steep climbs of 7+ percent with too many 10-12% grades. The downhills were often steep and short. Since we were either climbing or descending I couldn’t get any pictures.

The countryside was much like yesterday with big fields of young wheat – beautiful shades of green or woodlands and forests.

On one of our longer descents I finally made Chris stop so I could take this picture. It was such an odd site out here in this beautiful countryside.

Temelin Nuclear Power Station

Here’s our view during one of our calmer sections along the Oltava later in the morning.

At around 60km “an enchanting quiet forest path leads you to the Castle Hluboka, set high on a hill overlooking the Vltava.”

We spent over an hour here, eating a late lunch and exploring.

Leaving the castle behind we headed off for the last 10km to our hotel. This took us over two hours of trying to figure out how to get there. There were lots of errors on our route map and the road and cycle path numbers have changed since our map was printed.

We finally rolled in to the lovely town of Ceske Budejovice or Budweis, the home of the original Budweiser beer.

We couldn’t believe our room when we opened the door.

After a quick shower we’re off to explore the town. Our hotel is right on the town square.

In addition to being the home of Bud, this town has become a mecca for local micro breweries. Chris had already done his research and decided we were going to do a pub crawl this time. The first stop was Singer Pub where all the tables had old Singer sewing machines on them.

As we wandered the town we heard a lot of noise and music and came upon what looked like a “pop-up” skateboard park behind a church.

Here’s a typical side street without the crowds near the square.

There’s a beautiful little canal running through the town with a steady stream of kids and adults paddling by in canoes, kayaks and on boards. This picture was taken at 1830.

As far as the rest of the pubs, I can’t tell you much about them. But I can tell you the local white wine is delightful.

Bike Trip – Day 3: Sedcany – Pisek Czech Republic

23 Wednesday May 2018

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Pisek, Sedlcany

50 miles, 5 hrs riding time, 3,700 elevation gain

Today we were on the road by 0900. It was a lovely warm day. No jackets needed even this early in the morning. Can you believe this beautiful countryside?

Here’s a typical road sign. It’s pretty cool that they have the bike routes numbered just like highways are numbered.

We stopped for a late lunch near the town of Orlik. This was my amazing gnocchi feast with spinach and chicken. Chris had spaghetti with no sauce, just loaded with hot peppers and roasted garlic. He said it was the best spaghetti ever.

After lunch we rolled through beautiful of forest land. Very cool and peaceful but also very steep climbing. Lots of very long sustained 6-7% grades with a few 10-12% mixed in.

We got to our hotel U Kaplicky Hotel around 1600, took showers and headed to the town square to find beer. Every street we turned on there were people eating ice cream cones. We come around a corner and almost ran into someone marching toward us eating an ice cream cone. It was crazy. So, you know what they say, “When in Rome…”

Now for some of the local architecture.

As we wandered we came upon a sandcastle event down by the river.

And the highlight of the day – this was the second vizsla we saw today. Not a great picture ’cause he was so fast and happy I missed part of him.

Bike Trip – Day 2: Prague to Sedlcany Czech Republic

23 Wednesday May 2018

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Sedlcany

38 miles, 3.5 hrs of riding, 2,325 feet elevation gain

Our first real biking day of our bike trip. We got a leisurely start around 10ish and stopped by this church somewhere along the way.

Check out the bike racks by the front door.

And here’s a peek inside.

This is what a lot of the country side looks like.

A pretty short day. We got to our hotel around 1400 and luckily our luggage had already arrived and we were able to check in early to our Hotel Florian.

Here are a few sights of the town of Sedlcany.

A nice simple start to our tour.

Life in Japan and Beyond

~ Everyday is an adventure!

Bike Trip 2 – Day 11 Schlogen to Linz

Bike Trip 2 – Day 10 Passau to Shlogun

Bike Trip 2 – Day 9 Rest day in Passau

Bike Trip – Day 8 Rest Day in Passau

Bike Trip – Day 7 Aigen – Passau, Germany

Bike Trip – Day 6 Cesky Krumlov – Aigen, Austria

Bike Ride – Day 5 Budweis – Cesky Krumlov

Day 4 – Pisek to Ceske Budejovice

Bike Trip – Day 3: Sedcany – Pisek Czech Republic

Bike Trip – Day 2: Prague to Sedlcany Czech Republic